Monday, October 12, 2009

Southside Sunday

Sundays are days of rest and relaxation -- and in Berlin, the notorious Flohmarkt (flea market), where people sell anything from broken blenders to soul records to wash basins. This weekend saw a trip to the Hallentrödelmarkt in Treptow, a neighborhood in east Berlin. The jewel acquisition was a homemade 1989 Butthole Surfers live bootleg on cassette. Go figure. Also of interest was the graveyard of döner kebap signs, seen below.


With one Flohmarkt down and another to go, we were disappointed to learn the flea market at Moritzplatz was long gone and has since been replaced by a community organic garden. Not ones for letting a change of plans get in our way, we made our way to Volkspark Hasenheide, a public park built by the Nazis to beautify the city before Olympics. In an unusual development, the vast park today is known for its extensive trails and drug-buying opportunities. It is no exaggeration to say that drug dealers literally stand in the shrubs, catcalling at passersby. Indeed, across from two dealers was a small petting zoo, featuring my favorite friend:



He did not seem to enjoy the cold too much. Moving on we made our way to Viktoriapark, known for its towering iron monument to Prussian victories in the 1812-1814 War of the Sixth Coalition against Napoleonic expansionism. The monument is prefaced with an artificial waterfall that courses down an incline.


In the vicinity of Viktoriapark is Tempelhof Airport, the largest remaining example of Nazi architecture. It is more famous today, however, for the role the airport played in sustaining West Berlin during the Soviet blockade of 1948/49. Western airmen delivered goods and supplies to the city on a 24/7 basis to nourish the city through the winter. Today, a solemn memorial commemorates the airmen lost in accidents during the Luftbrücke (air bridge).


Venturing south we entered the historically immigrant working-class district of Neukölln, sprinkled with kebab shops, erotic stores, Arabic bakeries and an inordinate amount of litter. Standing out was this unusual sculpture park.

Rounding out a day on the city's south side witnessed the purchase of a typical Berlin street dish: the currywurst. White pork sausage is sliced and slathered in a tomato-based sauce mixed with curry powder. Jared almost vomited.

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